I want to tell a story and share my feelings with all of you about one of my best friends, Sally Stein. She killed herself two years ago in February. That’s the month that most people commit suicide. She happened along, by chance, during a part of life that was filled with magic, wonder, self-exploration and freedom. I wish that period could have ended differently.
The first time I went to Spain was on a summer program after sophomore year of college. I went to the University of Salamanca in Spain to study language, literature and art. To be honest, I needed to get out of the country for a little while, I needed to pull myself together. My parents were always willing to fund any educational experience, particularly abroad, so I seized the opportunity, not only to learn, but to try and heal myself a little bit.
At Amherst College, one of my majors was a Spanish Literature. While I had fair mastery of the written word, like most people who study a foreign language a continent apart, my oral skills left something to be desired. I knew the best way to improve my ability to communicate with people, was to go to a Spanish speaking nation. I loved the language, but am also fascinated by people, other cultures, other ways of doing things, other ways of thinking. Language has the key to that door and, the way specific words chosen, the specific construction of a sentence can tell you a lot about the priorities of the people in a nation/culture. All I really wanted to do was converse, ask questions and share. I knew I needed the type of immersion I’d experienced in Tunisia on a summer AFS program where I’d lived with a family. That type of constant interaction with people who spoke no English helped me immensely with my ability to speak French and understand the Tunisian people.
We arrived in Madrid, stayed a week, and then moved on to Salamanca. The University is one of the oldest in the world and I was excited to walk the halls as many had done before me over the centuries. I was hoping to find inspiration in the history and through that, the will to forge forward. I needed to find myself again. I was lost. I’d been involved in an abusive relationship with my boyfriend in college and I was confused, humiliated and had completely lost my bearings. I felt like I was living someone else’s life, or watching a movie where I was the main character. I felt detached from myself. I wanted to use this trip to figure out why this had happened to me and what it meant about me/for me. So, I left. It’s what I do when I need to figure something important out.
This was my first time in Spain and I loved it. I loved the people – they were so open and friendly, and, I loved their way of life. There was an ease in the air I’d never experienced before. The collective stress level was much lower. I sensed a tacit acceptance of the flawed human soul. People didn’t seem to need to compete with each other in the way we do in the United States. Each person I met seemed to be doing their own thing, doing what they liked to do. No one asked you what school you went to, where you lived or what you did for a living as a measure of if they should even bother talking to you, of whether you were worth their time, whether you were one of them, or someone they could get something from. Life was a journey for Spaniards, not a destination. Spanish people seemed to appreciate the small things about life. Having a coffee and an interesting conversation might take precedence over any stupid chore you might have to accomplish on your self-imposed tight schedule. People seemed to take things in stride in a way Americans could not. They knew that everything did not have to be, nor would it be, perfect all the time. They knew happiness could be illusive and that the other feelings one had were to be savored as well, not rejected out of hand as inherently wrong or in need of drug therapy. I wanted to spend more time there and explore.
I was supposed to stay in Salamanca a month. I didn’t. I changed my ticket and decided to go to Cascais, Portugal for a month. I was still confused, still heartbroken and still very, very sad. But, that’s a story for another time.
I went back to school the following Fall semester and made plans to study in Spain again Spring semester. I chose to go to Sevilla because in 1985, no one spoke English there. I would be immersed, with no way out and I’d have to put all those words and constructions floating around my brain into some semblance of order to be able to communicate.
I left the U.S. on New Year’s Day. I wanted to start the year fresh. I was holding on by a thread. In the early ‘80s, domestic abuse wasn’t understood as well as it is now. It was a complete and total nightmare which involved the police as well as the administration. Everyone knew about my shame in this small New England College. I was humiliated and embarrassed; I needed to get away from this guy who was, at this point, literally stalking me. Who would think that would happen at Amherst College? But, again, that’s a story for another day.
I arrived in Spain in the middle of the night, with no place to live. I’d lived with a family in Tunisia, I’d had that experience and wanted to do something totally different. A woman on the plane recommended a hostel and we landed, I went straight there. It was disgusting, but I had no other options. It was the middle of the night, and everything in this “city” was closed. I cried all night, got up early the next morning and moved into another hostel down the street I’d read about in a guide book. It was an extended stay hostel and had a communal kitchen for all guests. It was pretty nice and I made it my home for 6 months. I made crazy friends from all over the world and had a great time as I tried to communicate with my housemates. I went to school rarely. I didn’t want to hang out with Americans speaking English, so I forged my own path. I got a job teaching English to Spanish professionals and got an apartment. I dropped out of school. Needless to say, my parents were not pleased.

Sally in the '60s before moving to Spain
I began to meet the people of Seville. I lived in the old barrio, Santa Cruz, and made friends with my neighbors. I had a boyfriend (met him in a disco), the surest way to learn a language, and met a bunch of expatriate Americans who’d lived in Sevilla under Franco since the ‘60’s. I met these people sitting outside at a bar. We began talking and became friends. They had many fascinating stories to tell and all had led incredible lives. I didn’t know what they did for a living, or where they had gone to college – it was all so refreshing. People were judged on what they said, not who they were. They liked me and found what I had to say interesting also. I felt like I’d found my safety spot. I felt I was being heard and being me for the first time. I started to feel better about myself.
I met John Fulton and Sally Stein on the same drunken night. We became fast friends and palled around every night in Sevilla. I had no phone in my apartment, so around 9pm each night, they would come and scream up to my third floor window in the tiny streets of the old barrio “Joy, Come out and play!” I did every night. They introduced to me many others, both Spaniards and foreigners and I became a part of their friend family. It was a magical time.

It's the '80 - leave my hair alone!
After many months, by accident, I found out my friend John Fulton was a famous bullfighter. He had been the first American bullfighter to fight in the ring in Mexico City as well as in the ring in Madrid. He had been Peter O’Toole’s understudy in Lawrence of Arabia and had the funniest stories about O’Toole in Franco’s Spain that I’d ever heard. He was an artist and a great man. He has since passed away and I miss him very much. He took me to my first bullfight and taught me the beauty of the dance between man and animal. I was fortunate. I met emotionally generous, amazing people who became my friends and developed solid loving friendships.
I want to talk specifically about one of them, the woman who became my best friend, Sally. I was tweeting about her the other morning. It was the first real time I had spoken about her, allowed myself to think about her. She committed suicide two years ago and I’ve not been back to my beloved Sevilla since.
Sally was singular. She was from Wichita, Kansas and had landed in Spain in the early ’60s. She’d gone there on vacation, a graduation gift from her parents and never left. It happens a lot in Sevilla. There is something magical about it. None of us can put our fingers on it, maybe it’s the mix of cultures – Moors and Spaniards that gives it the special feeling that it has. Who knows? If you ever go there, all I have to say is beware. You might become one of us! Sally left the States after the assassinations of JFK, MLK, and RFK. She said she had become totally disillusioned with the United States. Maybe there was more to it than that, I don’t know. That’s what she told me.
We had a strange relationship. We were friends, we loved each other. We fought often, yelled, screamed and cried. While Sally was like a Spanish mother to me – she taught me much about life in Spain. She introduced me to new friends, she helped my find my apartment, figure out how to turn on the electricity and the phone, I was also like a mother to her. While I was much younger than she, I had more common sense. I helped her with work disputes, with friend disputes, with technology. Our relationship was reciprocal, we helped each other. We had fun, we giggled and laughed constantly like two little girls. We read very similar books and listened to the same types of music though we were generations and a culture apart. She also loved words as do I. That was an important bond. Many English speakers translated for Spaniards during those years. It’s how we all made extra money. She cared about doing a great job as much as I did. I appreciated that about her. For many years I visited Sevilla and Sally every 3 weeks. We traveled throughout Andalucia together eating all the fish and shell fish we could find. Over time, in order to not piss my husband off entirely, I started a business to help pay for my little oasis of sanity. I imported 16th -19th century Spanish antiques from Andalucia to New York. A Spanish friend that Sally introduced me to had/has an antique store in the old barrio and I bought antiques wholesale from Laura, and sold them retail in New York to architects and interior designers. It gave me something to do, some cash, and helped me immerse myself even deeper into Spanish culture. The latter had always been my true quest.
I talked to Sally every day on the phone from New York. It was as if she were a friend down the street. We were a large group of friends, many lived in other countries like I did, and we’d convene every so often in Sevilla to tell the tales of our “other” lives while drinking beer and eating tapas. Spain, for me was the antithesis of NYC. The things that I believed mattered, did matter there. No one talked about money; everyone was there for each other. There was no pedigree competition. You stood on the merits of your words.
Sally was a beautiful woman in her youth. We met when she was about my age now, 45. I turned 21 in Sevilla. Sally, like me was more comfortable in Sevilla. She appreciated the way of life for the same reasons I did. She worked as a secretary for some famous Spanish architects and had a nice life. She had a wonderful rooftop apt. in Sevilla, and a summer house on the coast in Vejer de la Frontera. We made many hysterical trips back and forth. I’ve always been amazed by how in a 2 hour trip to the coast, Spaniards have to stop every 20 minutes to get a roadside beer! It made me nervous for many years, then, I just got over it. There was nothing I could do about it.
As the years passed, we shared many secrets; she helped me with my marriage to David, with my kids, and held me together whenever I was falling apart. In 2001, after the demise of the World Trade Center where my husband spent 12 years of his life working as a banker, he decided to make some changes. He didn’t want to be a banker in a large firm anymore. He couldn’t stand the illegality of what his colleagues were doing, he couldn’t stand the assholes he worked with. Our lives changed dramatically. We sold our home and he started his own business. For all intents and purposes, we were broke. She was there for me. She let me cry every night, let me be afraid, told me it would be ok. Maybe it wouldn’t be ok tomorrow, but one day. I leaned on her, I needed her. I tried to be that for her too. She had serious kidney issues. I took her x-rays to Columbia Presbyterian and, through a friend got the head of urology to diagnose her. She was a very stubborn woman and waited 10 years to have her kidney removed. Later, she suffered from nodules in her throat. She believed it to be cancer. She was a very heavy smoker. She waited to go to the doctor until she almost couldn’t speak. The cancer was operable. She would have been fine. Instead, she chose to take her own life. It wasn’t just because of the throat problem; I think it had more to do with aging, being single, and not having any family around. She had been a Princess, beautiful, blond, tall, leggy and now, her reign was over. She was older, she wasn’t so beautiful anymore. All the men were married. She was too old for affairs. She made a bad property investment and lost her inheritance. She’d lost her job because of her kidney ailment; she was immobilized for some time. She was now living on social security and while she received money enough to live quite decently, she was going to have to downsize. She was going to have to watch her money closely. She didn’t want to do that. She wasn’t flexible. She couldn’t roll with the punches. She either wanted it all or nothing. To top it off, I was basically her only family, and I had problems that precluded me from being around for support. I was depressed and could barely function. I didn’t have extra to give to anyone. I spent a lot of energy pretending I was ok in front of my children.
One day, I got a package in the mail with two plane tickets to Spain in it. They were gifts from Sally. The dates were firm and could not be changed. At the time, I was working full-time as a copy-editor and had to beg for time off in a rather precarious work situation. While on the surface, it seemed like a nice gesture, it wasn’t. It was strange, manipulative, intrusive and made me resent her. I told her I had problems at home, I was working and couldn’t go to Spain right now. She didn’t care. She was forcing me to go there to spend time with her. The tickets were non-refundable. If I didn’t come, she would lose the money and she didn’t have money to spare. I had to go.
I called a mutual friend (Ruth), who lived in England. I told her what was going on and she decided to come with me. I told her Sally had been mentioning suicide, that she’d sent me the tickets. My British friend’s husband Mansour, (another mutual friend), had committed suicide one year earlier by diving off the cliffs of Penzance. When I heard that news out of Ruth’s screaming, crying mouth, I immediately thought of pirates and Broadway. I still feel a little bit guilty for that.
Thus, we both went to Sevilla to check on Sally. Sally had sworn me to silence about our conversations of suicide. She threatened me with cutting me off. On this trip, I decided her life was worth the cut off and I told our Spanish friends. They lived there, maybe they could help. What could I do from another continent? They all thought I was being a dramatic American. I am a couple of decades younger than all of my friends there, and sometimes, they think I’m not old enough to understand certain things. I’m sure they’re right, but this particular thing, I understood well. They shut me down and told me not to speak of such things.
Sally had Ruth and I over for dinner one night. We ordered Chinese food. Her living room seemed very different. At first, I couldn’t put my finger on it. Then, I realized it was slaughtered with framed photos of all of us. They were everywhere. It was like a shrine to someone’s life. We tried to talk to her, she wouldn’t hear of it. She told us if we continued this discussion, we would have to leave her home. So, rather awkwardly, we ate disgusting Spanish Chinese food and talked random bullshit all night. Two days later, after a drunken argument in a bar, I left Spain. I didn’t hug her, I was mad at her. I was mad at the entire situation and I was under a lot of stress at home. A family member was deeply involved in drugs and needed help. It was stressing out everyone in the family and along with my financial woes, I was having 10-20 anxiety attacks a day. I just felt overwhelmed.
I left Sevilla and went back to my home hell. I received two boxes in the mail and a large packet. I opened the packet and found a will, cremation papers, and a little note that began “I know you think this is wrong…”. I couldn’t open the boxes. I didn’t want to know what was in them. I didn’t want to talk to Sally, I was confused and angry. I didn’t know what to do. I called Ruth in England and she had received the same things in the mail. We tried to call Sally to no avail.
A couple of days later, I tried to call Sally on my cell phone from work. Nothing. She was always home, I was scared, but I also thought that maybe she’d gone to Italy. She sometimes did that without telling anyone to make you worry about her. I called my friend/landlord Perdita in Sevilla. When she answered the phone, she was sobbing and screaming “Oh, Joy, Oh, Joy”. I started screaming “Oh Joy WHAT? WHAT?” She asked, “Didn’t anyone call you yet? Sally’s dead. She killed herself.” I started crying, hung up the phone and went to my desk, sobbing. My boss told me to go home. I drove from L.I. back to Manhattan afraid I would have an accident. I was having that out of body feeling and couldn’t really connect with what I was physically doing. I got home, sobbing while parking the car, through the lobby, elevator, and into the arms of my husband. I ran a bath, picked up a bottle of wine and proceeded to sob and get drunk in the bathtub.
Then, the phone rang. It was another friend from Sevilla, Robert Vavra. He was a close friend of Sally’s and had, in fact, financially supported her for the past few years. In her will, she left me 3K Euros. The first thing he said to me was that he thought I should give him the money after all he had done for her. I couldn’t believe my ears. My best friend was dead, and this guy was talking money. Robert is in his ‘70’s – a famous photographer of horses. He’s very dainty. He also has no soul. He was good friends with Leni Riefenstahl. I cussed his ass out. I was livid, drunk, sad, and disappointed that anyone would bring up money in this situation. I told him I would be there as soon as I could get a flight, and, that if he touched anything before I got there, I’d call the police.
I got on a plane, red-eyed and flew to Sevilla. First, I had to find my friends and get a drink. After the drinks, we went to her apartment. I had keys. She sent them in the packet. I walked in to see 2 chalkboards. One had my name and phone number. The other had a letter written to me on it while death had been approaching. She wrote about the pills kicking in, it being hard to breathe and then, the writing trailed off. There were pills and beer by the bed. There were also laminated notes taped to various things around the house. They were instructions for me about how to handle certain things.
The next morning, I went to the coroner’s office. I was charged with identifying Sally’s body. There were a lot of people just hanging around outside, waiting, smoking cigarettes. I walked in and was told to wait in line. I stood outside smoking too. Caskets rolled up, people came out crying and went off with them. There was this one casket with a gigantic Jesus cross on top of it. For some reason, I was mesmerized by it. Other caskets came and went, but this one remained. I couldn’t get the song “Along Came Sally” out of my mind. I felt like I was going crazy. Finally, that very ornate casket was wheeled inside and I was beckoned inside too. The coroner opened the top of the casket and there she was. She had frilly white ruffles surrounding her head. She looked like that rich girl vampire in “Bram Stoker’s Dracula”, the movie with Gary Oldman. I was shocked. She wasn’t even religious! What was all this?
The next step was to follow the casket to a hearse and then walk behind it down the street to the crematorium. Other friends were waiting there. They wheeled her casket into a great open fire and told us to go up the street for beer and come back in 3 hours. We did. It was very strange and awkward for me, these traditions very foreign. We went back after 3 hours and I picked up a purple thermal bag, the kind you put bottles in for babies. It was Sally and I took her home.

This captures my friend Sally perfectly
I just opened the first box she sent me last weekend. She’d put beautiful scarves from Italy in it and trinkets from Rome. I haven’t opened the second box yet.
October 8, 2009
Conversations About Race: Uncomfortable But Necessary
The other night, I posted a rather provocative video of a black man screaming at a young white woman. I added to the video tweet that my son had come into my office and made me watch it.
Here’s the video:
The black man’s speech, albeit it from a mic ripped out of the white girl’s hand, was incited by the woman’s questioning of the black man’s love of America. What an ironic accusation. And, as a result, the fed-up black man felt the need to explain to any and all listening how very hurtful that accusation was.
I cried when I watched the video. I cried because I felt that black man’s pain. Sometimes it’s just hard, you know? You can feel yourself walking on the emotional edge for reasons that range from stupid to life altering. Could be because of some stupid ass racist comment that stuck in your craw that you wish you’d responded better to, or some store employee humiliated you by asking you if you know the price of the item you asked them to show you, or you were being followed around the drugstore like a criminal, you were ignored and skipped in line on purpose by the deli dude, or you stood in a store looking lost and directly into the eyes of some employee who had no intention of helping you. You might be getting fucked at work while some stupid ass white idiot receives more recognition, just because they’re white. You are 100% sure it’s not you because even your co-workers have mentioned it. It’s hard to swallow racist bullshit day in and day out. Sometimes you just need to blow.
Not often is one presented with the opportunity to just let it all out and, and, with a microphone in the street, no less. This man seized the moment to tell the smug little white girl just how Goddamn American he was/is. Now, was it done in the nicest of ways? Nope. She challenged him, rather naively, I might add, and he challenged her back with some real, hard ass truth. It made her cry. And, I couldn’t care less. She’s not the point.
Shortly after my video tweet, I saw an RT of it with the hashtag #bigot #blackman. I was indignant. I asked the person to please remove the hashtags. I was angry, because while I knew that classification made no sense whatsoever, I also knew why the person had done it. Delivery.
Why was a black guy a bigot for telling a white girl the truth? I, personally, was moved to tears by what he said in his well-constructed historical timeline of slight. Moved by how he said we’ve loved their children, and them, died for their/our country and hadn’t gotten one Goddamn ounce of respect for it. He was right. It was true. He said it with passion, yet control. It was linear, and he covered a hell of a lot of bases. Quite frankly, I thought he did a damn fine job. And, I’m sure he did it so well because he’d been thinking about all of that for a very long time. All of us African-Americans/People of Color have/are. Our whole lives, in fact.
In college, while participating in race conversations with my white friends late into the night, I tried to explain that these discussions were not just intellectual for me, they were also emotional. How could they not be? These issues they had the luxury of intellectualizing, actually affected every single part of my life, my existence. The passion in my voice stemmed from anger, frustration, sadness, and hope. Yes, hope. Hope that I would be heard. Hope that we could be honest. Hope that the conversation could somehow make a difference. Did I get loud sometimes, certainly. I still do. I do because I hurt and I want the pain acknowledged, not dismissed as hysterical or a “chip on my shoulder” or “militant”, whatever that means. No amount of “it’s better than it was before” or “we’ve made progress” make it any better because it’s still fucked up. I shouldn’t have to feel “good” that the KKK isn’t stringing me up right now, or that I can stay in a hotel with white people, or that I can go to a school I deserve to go to. Seriously, how much better should I feel? How much better would you feel? Hence, the frustration. The frustration that I know I have, and the frustration that the black man was exhibiting on video. I am a human being and I am asking other human beings to tell the truth, acknowledge the reality of racism and talk about it. I am asking for people not to deny it, ameliorate, soft peddle it, run away from it, or seek to circumvent it by talking about “delivery”.
The tweeter I attempted to discuss the substantive part of the tweet with could only focus on the girl and her momentary brush with the uncomfortable. While I conceded that it wasn’t perhaps “nice”, neither did I give it much of a second thought. My twitter friend, though, couldn’t let go of the black man’s delivery, saying it wouldn’t win allies for “the cause”. Seemed to me that the passionate self-defense by the black man of himself, his people, and other people of color, was just too much to acknowledge. It was as though through defending the girl, he was defending himself and all others who don’t want to be “accused” of something or have to “admit” to something. I found that unfortunate, as well as somewhat typical ( I don’t mean that pejoratively), for race discussions are very uncomfortable. Focus on delivery, in lieu of content, provided the escape clause – and was very blame the victimish, I might add. I read “I can’t hear you because I don’t like the way your saying it”.
Racism is an emotional topic. That being said, it’s not a valid way out of the conversation for white people to tell black people that their feelings about racism will only be heard if delivered in a way they deem palatable, in a way that saves their feelings and that is comfortable. That type of dialogue control comes at the expense of black feelings and is antithetical to the point – sharing and truth. To insinuate what we will only be listened to on your terms, that all other modes of expression are rejected, is a non-starter. Black people are not the caretakers of white feelings. We are here, though, to share our feelings and experiences with you. Through honest listening, questioning, reflecting, and coming back for more, we can move this ball forward, if only a little bit. Let’s all try to understand how other people feel, what their experiences have been, what they’ve been through and what we all want for our nation. Stop rejecting that which needs to happen for all of us to move forward. If we can overcome cop outs like “delivery”, then perhaps we might be able to hear each other’s actual words and begin to foster a much more rich, fulfilling discussion. Shared truth and the ensuing growing pains will cleanse us all.
Joy
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Filed under Psychology of Race in America, Racism in America, The Politics of Race, White America
Tags: African-American, commentary, Obama, Politics of Race, Psychology of Race, race, Racism in America, Sociology, United States of America